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Gear list for rock climbing
Slings and webbing (Dyneema slings are lighter, less bulky, and easier to knot than nylon slings). HMS Carabiners can be used with the belay device and the other is useful for constructing belays. Screwgate Carabiners will be used to make belays. When buying crabs do note the gate opening. This should either not be too wide and not too narrow. Narrow screwgates are more difficult when clipping in the rope. A set of Wire size 1 to 10, For easier handling,the wires should be racked together on 2 snapgates. RockCentrics e.g. size 5,7,9 on Dyneema The slings should be doubled and then clipped onto a snapgate carabiner for easier handling. Go for Camming Devices (size 1.5 and 2.5 or size 1,2 and 3) with a flexible stem and high passive strength. Such as Wild Countries Tech Friends or Camalots. Set of nuts on wire. Prusik loops, Nut key. As the Rope of a Sport Climber undergoes a lot of stress, quality is very important. Independent what type of climber you are, you should always check that your rope is UIAA-rated. Always use single ropes between 10.5mm and 11mm in diameter. Krabs, The length of the rope should be at least 50 meterr, since many new sport routes feature anchors 30 meters off the deck. A dry-treatment is not necessary. But in order to protect your rope of chemicals, dirt, and the sun, a rope bag is very useful. This extends its life by many pitches. Choose a Lightweight Harness with a Belay Loop and 2 to 4 Gear Loops. Padding is ok, but it is not really necessary. Sport Climbing only makes you stay in your harness for max. 10 minutes. Beginners should choose lace up climbing shoes as these have thicker soles. Many climbers recommend to choose your rock climbing shoes 1 to 2 sizes smaller than the size you would normally wear, but as beginner you do need to make sure you still feel comfortable with it. Sticky boots are fantastic. As a beginner you should choose a Belay Plate with an Autolocking Carabiner that has a very firm brake action, but still allows your rope to feed quickly in and out. If you start to climb more often, you can opt for a self-locking belay device. This device is not suitable for beginners, as the rope tends quite often to jam in this device if not properly used. Buy a dedicated climbing helmet that is either (or both) UIAA or CEN certified. If you need to lead a climb and therefore need to setup a number of top ropes that are anchored to bolts, trees, or large rocks, you will need a number of quickdraws, preferably 12 or more. Each should have a straight-gate carabiner at one end for clipping the bolt hanger, and either a bent-gate or wire-gate biner on the other end to accept the rope easily.

Abseiling or Rappelling
 is the technique used for descending steep rock. This is either done after a climb or where there is difficult access (e.g. sea cliffs) to the start of the climb. The rope goes through a safe anchor at the top. Then attach the rope to a friction device and a screwgate of an extender onto the load-bearing loop of the harness like you would normally do when belaying. Ensure that the dead rope, the side of the rope that you are controlling is coming out of the device. Then put a Prussik knot onto this and clip it in your abseil loop below the extender with another screwgate. The Prussik will act as a safety backup and will ensure that when the controlling hand is released by accident, the abseil will be stopped.

Belaying
 is securing the climber during his climb. There are many techniques and belay devices to achieve this. But note that if you choose the correct belay device and belay method, both you (the belayer) and the climber should experience no difficulties. Although there are many techniques to belay a person, we will focus here on the two most commonest methods. In any case the belayer should be confident that when the climber slips, the belayer will be able to hold a fall without causing any injuries to the climber nor to him/herself. First create a single or a multiple-point equalized anchor. This step is not always necessary as it depends on the weights of the climber and belayer, as well the stance of the belayer. Then tie the rope-end into your harness. By doing this you will create a belay loop. Attach yourself to the anchor, if there is one (refer to step 1).Note that you as a belayer should be attached tight to the anchor and in line with any direction of the loading. Then attach a belay device to your belay loop. The device is now ready to be used in a semi-direct belay method. This belay method is called semi-direct as the load of a fall is taken by the anchor AND by the belayer via the belay device, belay loop and the rope to the anchor. The attachment of the belayer is attached to the anchor ensures that the belayer can easiliy lock off and pay out the rope when under tension.

A direct belay is constructed to take the load of a fall directly to the anchor. The belayer in this case, can either be attached to an anchor or not, depending on the situation. One method is to take the rope around a rock flake, spike, boulder or tree, generating friction along the surface of the anchor. Of course, the chosen anchor should always be solid and unmovable. Then it is just a matter of holding the rope with your hands (do use gloves!) and taking in or out, hand over hand, as required. Another method is to use an Italian Hitch and a single or multiple-point anchor. Here you clip an HMS screwgate carabiner into the anchor. Ensure that the gate faces up and the wider end is away from the anchor and clip in an Italian Hitch. You can now operate the belay, with any load being transmitted to the anchor.

Climbing calls  
TAKING IN = Call from the leader that he is pulling up, hand over hand, all of the slack rope between himself and his second. THAT'S ME = Call from second to indicate that all of the slack rope between himself and the leader has been pulled up. CLIMB WHEN YOU ARE READY = Call from leader, which only comes after he has put on his belay device, checked all knots, gates shut and done up, tight on belay, in line with belay and able to brake correctly. OK or CLIMB ON = Call from leader to show that he has hear that the second is about to climb. TAKE IN = Indicates slac rope is needed, maybe to reverse a move or unclip a runner. SLACK = Indicates slac rope is needed, maybe to reverse a move or unclip a runner. TIGHT = Often called by the second, either when making an awkward move, or when expecting to fall off. SAFE = From the leader, to indicate that there is no possibility of him coming to harm. The second will normally say 'safe' at the top of a route to the belayer out of courtesy. YOU'RE OFF or OFF BELAY = From the second, following the 'safe' call from the leader. RUNNER ON = From the leader, to indicate that the first runner has been placed and the second must now be ready to hold a fall from a different direction. BELOW= From anyone who has accidentally dislodge a stone e.g. from a crag or a route. This call must be shouted in full volume. If you hear the call, do not look up as you may receive an injury. ROPE BELOW = A courtesy call when lowering or throwing out a rope or abseiling, top roping etc

Rockclimbing terms  
Arete = A protruding corner of rock. Big Wall = A multi-pitch climb that typically takes more than a day to complete. Chimney = A crack wide enough to fit your entire body in. Jugs = Big, deep holds. Lay Back = To support the body by creating opposition between pulling arms and pushing feet. Mantle = A hand-foot match in which the body rocks on to a ledge similar to the motion you would use to get out of a swimming pool. Slab = Flat and seemingly featureless, not quite vertical piece of rock. Soloing = Climbing alone, though not necessarily without the protection of a rope (unless you're in the UK, where a solo is always a free solo). Sticht plate= A belay device consisting of a plate with two slots in it. An original creation by Franz Sticht. Beer = Liquid consumed in large quantities after climbing.